Baker’s Dozen / Binda Singh of Ananda

Binda Singh is the epitome of hospitality. The impeccable suits, the astonishing memory, the professional yet warm and relaxed way he treats his guests at Ananda. And, yes, I usually focus my local writing on people and places within (roughly) Baltimore City limits, but for Binda, I will break the “rules”. He is so good at what he does and he is a friend.

I first went to Ananda in Maple Lawn (near Columbia) for a preview dinner with local media folks about 10 years ago. I remember being very much in awe of the space. Our long table was right in front of huge, open garage doors and the table was set so beautifully yet simply. That may have been the first time I met Binda, but I’m not sure. I hadn’t been to his other restaurant, The Ambassador Dining Room very often, but I had heard a lot about the Singh brothers, Binda and Keir, over the years. Always just how kind and hospitable they are.

At that first dinner, we had sharing plates of dishes of their classic watermelon feta salad, mini-crab cakes with a ginger cocktail sauce, a few kinds of samosas and roasted cauliflower with tamarind, lime, chili, and toasted sesame. I loved all of the flavors and trying new dishes that were pretty new to me at the time. That was a very special night and I felt so lucky to be there. I loved that the menu was filled with beautiful Indian dishes and felt very approachable at the same time. Sometimes, friends will say, “oh, I don’t think I’d like Indian food.” And I say go and try it, the servers will help you to figure out the best things to order. To me, any great restaurant will make new diners feel comfortable, while tempting them with new dishes. For Ananda and Peerce’s, they will guide you and let you take baby steps into their cuisine, heat levels included!

Over the years, I have always loved going to Ananda. It’s often a place to celebrate a birthday, a new job, my bestie in town from Paris. The last time this past July, it was for dinner with an old work colleague who has become a good friend who lives in Howard County. Ananda always feels like a nice night out but not stuffy at all. And, just FYI, they make very fantastic cocktails, especially my favorite, a dry martini. They also have an extensive wine list and also offer creative non-alcoholic drinks.

It’s equally lovely running into Binda at food events around town and feeling like I am catching up with an old friend. Several years ago, he invited me to a party at his house – I think it was when he was first getting his farm up and running. Right there next to their house, they grow a huge number of vegetables and herbs and also raise chickens, ducks and geese for eggs for the restaurants and for their family. The food and drinks and people at that party were so much fun. They had build-your-own s’mores and I didn’t want to leave because I love roasted marshmallows so much. As I walked down the driveway to leave, still thinking about the marshmallows, I felt like, wow. Binda and his wife Rachel throw amazing parties! (ps. Rachel is an event planner and you should definitely hire her…)

As you may know, Binda’s family sold the Ambassador Dining Room several years ago in order to focus on their two newer places – they also own Peerce’s out near Loch Raven Reservoir on Dulaney Valley Road. I’ve only been once but loved it very much. Food, drinks, service, space – all impeccable. And, it is packed all the time! Keir Singh runs Peerce’s and he is just as warm and kind as Binda. In fact, front and back of house at both restaurants are run by the Singh sisters: Kinday is executive chef at Ananda and Bolay at Peerce’s. How incredibly special.

It was such a joyful thing to have Binda be a part of this very special series of mine. I love letting people know more about the people behind some of their favorite places. As I have always said, food is about people.

Enjoy! (Thanks, Binda)

_{photo credit: Jennifer McMenamin}

Cake or Pie? And what kind?

Key lime, as tart as possible!

Your most prized possession?

My children, Ben and Alex.

What’s your favorite thing to order out at restaurants?

Raw oysters.

What’s your favorite to cook at home?

Eggs from my ducks and geese in the backyard.

What’s your morning beverage and how do you take it?

Nespresso with steamed oat milk and maple syrup.

What’s your personal motto?

We’re only on this earth for a short time. Let’s enjoy it as much as we can.

What’s your favorite holiday and why?

Every Monday is a holiday for me because we close the restaurant for family time. We always do dinner with the whole family, and our staff does a “family” dinner of their own.

Best advice you were ever given? And from whom?

My father, who is a very strict Punjabi man, said, “If at first you don’t succeed, do it the way I (expletive) told you!” He also said, “Don’t count on anyone but yourself. If you want something, you have to make it happen.” There’s great value in his experience.

What do you feel is your greatest accomplishment?

Raising my kids to be kind, empathetic, courteous people. It’s still a work in progress, but it’s the best thing I’m trying to accomplish in my life.

The last text you sent?

I texted one of the guys who works at the restaurant and on our farm to make sure he refreshed the water for the birds and refilled the feed. Typically, I would do that, but I’m away today.

What is your idea of perfect happiness?

Personal growth, meaningful work, a sense of belonging and contribution to something greater than oneself. “Ananda” is Sanskrit for the ultimate bliss. I don’t believe in perfection, but the ultimate bliss of Ananda and our farm gets me pretty close.

What do you love most about food?

My childhood was about surviving, so food started out as a way to keep us alive. Now, I have the luxury of experiencing food in a different way. The most enjoyable parts are finding the balance of flavors, bringing joy to others and creating memorable experiences.

What’s your favorite place in Baltimore?

The place we affectionately refer to as “Binky’s House.” It’s my brother Keir’s home in northern Baltimore, where we do family dinners as often as possible.

Baker’s Dozen is an occasional column highlighting some very talented, hardworking and kind folks in the Baltimore food + beverage community. I hope you will make a point to support their businesses.