I’m completely fascinated by chefs who cook nose-to-tail style – using every part of the animal – like kidneys, brain, feet and more. One of the most front-and-center of these chefs is Chris Cosentino. Often at his restaurant Incanto in San Francisco, he’ll offer a plate called “Odds and Ends,” amazing dishes made out of what many chefs toss. Some say gnarly, I say try it!
If you’re an Instagram user, follow Chris – he’s fun. He also founded the artisan salumi company, Boccalone, and they make the most amazing salami and other tasty salted pig parts. I love the orange and fennel. The head salume (the guy who actually makes all of this art), Stephen Pocock, is a Baltimorean and a very cool guy. He also runs his own business called Damn Fine Bacon, which keeps Bay Area bacon enthusiasts quite happy.
So, yes, I’m a fairly adventurous eater now, but I was kind of a picky eater as a child. Being the youngest of six (five older brothers), I quickly learned to eat what I was offered…and to grab it FAST. As I started to cook somewhat seriously in these last few years, I began to try my hand at what I guess I’d call “projects” like preserving food and making things like bread, cheese, pasta and more. Then, when I saw a recipe for curing bacon in Max & Eli Sussman’s (awesome) new cookbook, I decided that bacon was next. And, by the way, I’ve made several things out of the cookbook (the flank steak is awesome and easy) and I love it. Very approachable, good stuff. Highly recommend this cookbook:
Back to the bacon. First, the pork belly was from local pigs raised at Zahradka Farm, a local farm that Clementine works with all the time for the restaurant, market and also a very popular local meat CSA. So, Winston was excited to share their own pig with me, the eager student. I followed a New York Times recipe by John Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn, co-authors of Charcuterie. (I want that book – hint, hint) It was very clear and easy to follow. Basically, you choose your flavors, rub them onto the pork belly and then put it in a zip-loc bag in the fridge, turning it over daily. Then, after seven to eight days, you simply cook it in the over on 200 for 90 minutes. You can also use a smoker, but well, I don’t have a smoker and I can’t imagine I will be getting one anytime soon.
For the recipes and techniques, I also consulted the Sussmans’ cookbook. The only modification I made was to skip one ingredient – pink Himalayan sea salt. It makes the bacon pinkish in color – similar to bacon you’d buy in the store – but it also contains nitrates and Winston said I could definitely skip it at home. He said my bacon would look sort of grey until I cooked it – and he was right, of course. I made one savory bacon rubbed with fresh herbs and garlic and one sweeter kind with brown sugar and coffee.